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www.drip fed waste oil heating.com

We ship all our products world wide, accept 45 kg cylinders. 

We sell controlled, safe, clean burning multi fuel heaters.

2020 All Rights Reserved. 

Website update 10/08/2022 9.30 am.

Note the shop is in USD & NZD $'s go to currency converter to find the price in your currency.

We are in New Zealand

Hawkes Bay.


email [email protected]

Can collect from Hawkes Bay. NEW ZEALAND



You're build your own waste oil heater, and having trouble keeping it to a steady temperature using a needle valve or tap. It wants to increase in temperature without you even touching anything, and sometimes even turns red into a Chernobyl nuclear reactor.

Why does it happen? Well it's simple, as oil warms up, oil flows faster into your heater, so if you walk away from it, your heater can get out of control very quickly because you can't see the increased fuel entering the fire. This took us a few years to work that out.

The only way around this common problem with waste oil heating, is to use a timer and a pump to control that oil flow. 

There are a few rules regarding burning oil.

#1 If the heater is inside, keep the oil outside, or visa versa, this well stop the oil from heating up, therefore making it more stable, just watch out for the sunshine even that will alter the flow rate. So best situation is heater outside, oil inside.

#2 Needle valves, brass wheel water valves don't control oil flow. No tap we have tried works, all taps will flow faster when the oil temperature increases.

This tends to occurs more with the gravity fed type heaters, as oil heats up the flow can sometime double.

So our advice always keep the heater outside and use hot water to heat the home via radiators. Use a plumber to connect it up. You'll need a Ajax Valve and a open vent.

The only way to control oil flow is to pump it, this keeps the heater at a set temperature and very stable.

This is the only option we have found that works. And works that well you can leave it come back in three hours and it hasn't changed.

A waste oil heater controller, now controls the oil flow, whether the oil gets hot or cold, it never changes the amount entering the heater. By doing this, it controls the upper temperature, and with the thermostat which controls the lower temperatures. Customers now find they can leave their heaters going all day, all night, with this controller and it never have to check the heater, giving them total peace of mind.

The thermostat now been added to the controller, should the heater or in our case, the water temperature to the radiator drop below 30c the thermostat cuts the oil flow off stopping the heater. 

The issue I have had with gravity fed heaters, should the flame ever get low or go out, the oil would continue to flow causing an oil spill until your oil container emptied out. This controller turns the oil flow off, fixing these issues and turns the heater into a very stable and safe heating option.

The gravity fed heater days are over, don't even look at them they can become extremely dangerous.

The Waste oil controller unit, certainly a must for all home made gravity fed waste oil heaters.

A really nice fool proof system.

$148.00nzd. BUY NOW  To USA Or Canada $165.95 NZD please add the courier fee to your purchase.

#When buying please leave an email address so we can tell you the freight cost.


We have these on Trademe for you Kiwis $148.00nzd

These can run from a 12 volt car battery too. ask for this option.



The control of a radiator by using a controller.

On our controller, I adjust the delay time to lower and to up the temperature of the fire.

So if the water or pressure of the hot water is going out the open vent, the water is too hot, for what your heating, so increase the delay time by 2 seconds to lower the fire temp.

This stops the water exiting the open vent, therefore the radiator stay at a stable temp, and won't drop off in temp when fresh water enters the loop.

So we keep the water at 90c at the heater, and by the time it reaches the radiator it's 70-75c, and this then heats the house to 24c so without doing this, the temperature at the radiator would drop to 65c soon after the fresh water enters the loop then climbs back up to 85c then vent off again.